Bira restaurant: only for Cariocas

Welcome to Bira! If this photo on its own doesn't inspire you for some serious seafood stew, you must be on a perpetual diet.

Why would I write that Bira is only for Cariocas? They will certainly very happily accept your money, but they wont accept your credit cards. Furthermore you will have to take an extremely long cab ride. But I wouldn't be writing this unless it was well worth your time (and money!).

This is where my husband and I had our rehearsal dinner for our wedding over 10 years ago. Our guests are still talking about it, or that which they remembered after too many caipirinhas! So, as I am still married to the same wonderful Carioca husband, and above is one of the mini Cariocas we have since created, take a day on the weekend and make the trek to BIRA.

I would suggest renting a cab for the day, through your hotel. This way you can make a day trip out of the affair. First relax in the sun at one of the wildest (as in wildlife) beaches in Rio, called Prainha (tell the cab it is after Recreio beach, he will know). It is in the middle of a wildlife reserve and is, again, one of those non-tourist, Rio native type places. Few gringos to be found here!

Now back to this crazy stew they serve at Bira! After the beach at Prainha, ask the cab to go to Pedra da Guaratiba, which is a small town over the hills. The trip on its own is very picturesque, but again our focus here is food! Once you get to the military entrance in Pedra da Guaratiba there is a sharp turn left and you will go up the hill to Bira. Your cab drive will have to ask some people, but it is easy to find.

The name of the stew is Moqueca. As a national dish you are almost obligated to order it. It will come bubbling to your table, and taking this photo was quite a task as the seafood steam kept fogging up the lens. The stew well reflects that which is Brazil, lots of African flavor, with the coconut milk and palm oil, as well as some coriander to freshen things up a bit. Fish through the stew and you will find octopus, mussels, fish and shrimp. For those of you who are less adventuresome you can order the same stew but just with shrimp and fish. Both come with manioc flour (better than it sounds!) and rice.

And last but not least you are basically eating in a tree house! The view from here over another nature reserve is absolutely spectacular. If you are lucky a mico monkey might scamper though the trees (dont worry they hate octopus stew!). And of course I would never recommend this place if it didnt also have fabulous caipirinhas! (you might want to order some shrimp pasteis to start). Bon appetit!

Rua Barros de Alarcão, 476, Pedra de Guaratiba, 2417-1716